Hiking the South Downs Way: Winchester to Exton Part One
Distance: 12 miles (19 km)
Difficulty: Moderate
Estimated Time: 4-6 hours
Highlights: Iconic landmarks, rolling countryside, charming villages
The South Downs Way begins its 100-mile journey in the historic city of Winchester, winding its way to Eastbourne. The first section from Winchester to Exton is an excellent introduction, combining a vibrant city start with peaceful countryside and charming villages. Whether you’re an experienced hiker or a weekend walker, this stretch promises a rich blend of history, nature, and charm.
Starting in Winchester
Begin your journey in Winchester, one of England’s most historic cities. Famous for its stunning cathedral, medieval architecture, and connections to King Alfred the Great, Winchester is a treasure trove of history. Start at Winchester Cathedral, one of Europe’s largest Gothic cathedrals, whose stunning architecture has stood for over 900 years. Just a short walk away, you'll find the trail’s official starting point King Alfred the Great Statue, commemorating the famous Saxon king who made Winchester his capital.
From here, follow the signs to leave the city behind. The route passes through residential areas before transitioning into open countryside, where the hum of city life is replaced by birdsong and fresh air. Keep an eye out for trail markers, as some signs are tucked away in unexpected spots.
Things to see in Winchester (separate post to come )
Winchester Cathedral: A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, dating back to 1079. Jane Austins Burial Site and Anthony Gormleys Sculpture Sound II is displayed in the crypt.
The Great Hall: Home to the legendary King Arthur’s Round Table.
Wolvesey Castle (Old Bishop's Palace) Free to visit
The Hospital of St Cross
Winchester College One of the oldest schools in England, established in 1382.
River Itchen: The South Downs Way follows this tranquil river as you leave the city.
As you leave the bustling streets, you’ll pass through the quaint suburbs and quickly transition into lush countryside. The gentle hum of city life fades, replaced by birdsong and the whispering winds of the Downs.
On the Trail: Villages and Views
The path meanders through gently rolling fields, quiet lanes, and woodlands. Early highlights include the Chilcomb village, a peaceful hamlet with charming cottages that feel like stepping back in time. As you ascend the gentle inclines, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of the South Downs—a patchwork quilt of farmland, hedgerows, and ancient chalk hills.
St. Catherine’s Hill
One of the trail’s standout features is St. Catherine’s Hill, an ancient Iron Age hill fort offering panoramic views of the Itchen Valley. A short detour to the summit is well worth it. Wander through the Mizmaze, a rare medieval turf labyrinth, and imagine the footsteps of countless pilgrims and travelers who once climbed this hill.
The trail continues through rolling fields and narrow paths lined with high hedgerows. These hedgerows create a sense of intimacy, enveloping you in the landscape while offering occasional glimpses of the South Downs' iconic chalk hills. It’s worth pausing at Cheesefoot Head, a natural amphitheater that’s perfect for a picnic while enjoying the sweeping vistas.
Lunch and Rest Stops
Cheesefoot Head
Around the halfway mark, you’ll come across Cheesefoot Head, a natural amphitheater formed by chalk downland. This spot is perfect for a picnic, offering sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. If you’d rather have a proper meal, consider detouring slightly off the trail to The Flowerpots Inn in nearby Cheriton. This cozy pub is renowned for its craft ales and hearty fare. Alternatively, stick to the trail and savor your packed lunch while enjoying the tranquil setting.
The Milbury’s Pub
If you’re in need of a refreshment stop closer to Exton, The Milbury’s Pub is a fantastic choice. Situated just off the trail, this historic inn boasts a 300-foot-deep well and a welcoming atmosphere. It’s an ideal spot to relax before tackling the final stretch.Descending to Exton
As you approach Exton, the trail gently descends through shaded woodland paths and open fields. The charming village of Exton, nestled in the Meon Valley, marks the end of this section. Be sure to visit the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a Grade I listed building dating back to Norman times.
To celebrate completing the first leg, stop by the The Shoe Inn, a delightful riverside pub offering locally sourced meals and a cozy atmosphere. Reflect on your journey so far and soak in the idyllic surroundings.
Emily’s Verdict
This section of the South Downs Way offers an incredible variety, starting in the historic center of Winchester and transitioning into nature almost immediately. The mix of city landmarks, countryside views, and quaint villages makes for an engaging journey. Do pay close attention to the signs, as some are easy to miss, particularly in areas with high hedgerows. Overall, this is a fantastic introduction to the trail and a highly recommended route for hikers of all levels. Make sure you time the Pubs though as they are not always open the whole day.
Tips for the Trail
Footwear: Opt for sturdy walking boots, as sections can be uneven or muddy after rain.
Water and Snacks: There are limited refill points, so carry plenty of water and energy-boosting snacks.
Navigation: The South Downs Way is well-marked, but having a map or GPS app as a backup is always wise.
Timing: Start early to make the most of the daylight, especially in winter months.
Why Walk This Section?
The Winchester to Exton stretch of the South Downs Way is a captivating blend of history, culture, and nature. It’s the perfect way to ease into the trail’s longer journey while immersing yourself in the picturesque beauty of the English countryside. Whether you’re walking for fitness, mindfulness, or adventure, this route will leave you inspired and eager for more.
Ready to lace up your boots and set out? Share your experiences and favourite moments on the trail Email me below!
